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Pueblo Bird Overlay-Inlay Vintage Buckle - ca. 1950s - S. Domingo or Cochiti?
$ 134.63
- Description
- Size Guide
Description
In brief:Charming Puebloan motifs arranged in a pleasing, creative and balanced design
Intriguing blend of Navajo, Hopi and NM Pueblo jewelry-making styles and techniques
Particularly nice turquoise inlay in what appears to be Lone Mountain (NV)
Width is 3 inches; height is 2 inches
Bar on the back of the buckle swivels for comfort when worn
See discussion below for details on the likely history of this distinctive piece
This unusual buckle most likely dates to the mid 1950s to early 1960s, and was probably made at one of New Mexico's Rio Grande pueblos. But the basic concept came, I believe, from the western edge of the state, in Navajo country.
In 1951, Dean Kirk, owner of the trading post at Manuelito (west of Gallup), had an idea for a new type of Indian jewelry that might appeal to tourists looking for a high-quality, all-in-one souvenir. Kirk envisioned a blend of Navajo, Hopi and Zuni designs and techniques combined into one piece. It didn't hurt that he also owned and operated the Lone Mountain turquoise mine in Nevada, a source of some of the finest turquoise ever found in the United States. The high quality of the design and Navajo execution made these pieces extremely popular--so much so that Kirk traveled the Four Corners area selling this hybrid product.
In terms of its multicultural style, fine workmanship, and handsome piece of what appears to be Lone Mountain turquoise (based on color and matrix), this buckle should have come from Manuelito. But I don't think it did. Instead, I believe it was made by someone who saw what was being done at Manuelito, and how successful it was, and decided to put a Rio Grande Pueblo spin on the concept.
The buckle owes its look to several influences: traditional Pueblo pottery motifs; Pueblo Deco and Moderne styles that had been prevalent in the Southwest since the late 1920s; Hopi overlay jewelry, with a generous dash of Navajo technique blended in; and as a final accent, a piece of fine inlaid turquoise--almost certainly Lone Mountain--right in the center. The inlay technique recalls both Zuni and Santo Domingo methods. The result is a deliberate, high-quality stylistic mix on the order of what Dean Kirk was selling, but localized, perhaps to appeal more to visitors in and around Albuquerque and Santa Fe--but also most likely a reflection of the silversmith's own cultural background. (Some of the designs would have been unfamiliar to non-Puebloans.)
The central motif is a large bird, probably a turkey, that could have stepped right off the wall of a Pueblo pot. All around the edge of the buckle is a line of stamped triangular shapes that echo bird tracks in wet sand or snow--slightly wobbly, just like real bird tracks. Puffy cumulus clouds stamped on either side of the bird hint at the association between birds and rain. The stamped designs in the four corners are more open to interpretation, but remind me of a Hopi motif I once saw that represented a swallow, birds that are commonly seen in western canyons.
When we think of Santo Domingo, most of us don't think of silversmiths, but the Pueblo has produced some fine ones. At the time this buckle was made, Vidal Aragon, Sam Lovato and Santiago Leo Coriz were active, just to name three. The neighboring Pueblo of Cochiti has had fewer silversmiths, but Joe H. Quintana was producing jewelry in the '50s and '60s, and beyond. Not far away, Ambrose Roanhorse, the great Navajo smith, taught at the Santa Fe Indian School. There, one could have learned all the techniques required to make this piece.
My own belief is that this buckle was made by a Santo Domingo silversmith whose name we may never know. But it's fun to imagine all the places this superb souvenir might have gone on its Southwestern sojourn: the La Fonda Hotel in Santa Fe...the KiMo Theater in Albuquerque...the Hotel El Rancho in Gallup (maybe John Wayne was staying there!)...the Museum Club in Flagstaff...then a ride in a Pullman car, followed by a long stay in California. Where will it go on the next leg of its journey?
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